In this article:
>>First impressions >>South Seas adventure
>>Delightful
surprises
>>Book a Freighter Cruise
>>For More Adventures

Printable version

Email article

Cruise ships are for wimps — freight ships are for adventurers.

The American public has become enamored of cruising aboard the glittering sea-going palaces of Carnival, Royal Caribbean, Cunard, and others that exit Miami heading on their rounds of the overwhelmed Caribbean isles. These behemoths seem to emphasize every type of pleasure except that of the sea itself. There is an alternative.

There are about 70 cargo ships that accept up to 12 passengers, the maximum international regulations permit without an onboard doctor. The average number of passengers is five. With cruises lasting about 60 days, only about 2,000 passengers annually enjoy this little-known adventure vacation.

After retirement, with unlimited time and a tight budget, my wife and I yearned to see the world. Between 1993 and 2001, we took five cruises covering 100,000 miles while visiting 42 ports in 23 countries, and our average daily cost was less that $100.

First impressions

Our first trip was such a downer we still marvel at our perseverance. In August 1993, we boarded the James Lykes in Charleston, S.C., for a Mediterranean round trip. Brochures on freighter travel pictured tidy ships with shiny black hulls and glistening white superstructures. The James Lykes — a two-toned, brooding shape with no white paint — looked like a troop carrier about to sail for the Normandy beachheads.

The somber gray mass was streaked with rust, the boarding gangway had narrow metal steps and loose railings, and the deckhouse door had a rusted gap big enough to let the cat out. A dismal corridor and two flights of stairs led to our stateroom, immediately below the bridge. The large room had two unobstructed-view windows with tattered curtains, a well-appointed bathroom with a shower, ample storage, and a small desk. Steel cots, a cheap card table and two straight-back chairs completed the furnishings. A towel draped over the register controlled the air conditioning. Things just weren’t as expected. The first stop would be Sunny Point, N.C. Why not travel that far, and, if necessary, then call it quits?

Lykes was the sole surviving American flag cargo line and operated mainly as a government freight service. It was 35 years old with an outdated steam turbine drive. Our cargo consisted of three shipments: 5,300 tons of flour for Rijeka, Croatia; a liquefied natural gas plant for Algeria; and 63 containers of military rockets and small arms ammunition for our troops in Macedonia. The James Lykes was not a conventional freighter in age, design, cargo, or ownership.

The overnight trip to Sunny Point was encouraging — the dinning was good, and we enjoyed the freedom of the ship and the company of only one other passenger.

Despite five days of isolation in Sunny Point, one of the world’s largest munitions ports, surrounded by posters reading “Think explosions; think really big explosions!”, we decided to stay aboard the Lykes, at least for the Atlantic crossing.

The first day at sea was a delight as we assumed our steady cruising speed of 17 knots in beautiful weather. Immersed in peace and quiet as I strolled the deck, appreciation of the sea took hold. My favorite spot was the extreme forward notch of the fo’c’sle. With deckhouse and all operating machinery far aft, the only sound was the bow gently slicing the waves. The horizon was 15 miles away, and I enjoyed the 700 square miles that seemed to be occupied solely by God and me. Few such opportunities for serious thought exist in today’s world.

Unforgettable experiences in the 30 days that followed included:

• Greek refusal to berth the ship in Piraeus until munitions were off-loaded across the bay;
   
• an aborted train trip from Oran to Algiers amid increasing threats of terrorism; and
   
• predawn boarding in the Adriatic Sea by troops brandishing submachine guns as we were taking food to the Balkans.

There also were three fascinating east-west crossings of the Mediterranean, its routes crowded with a mariner’s delight of sea-going craft; a moving visit to the Athenian monuments; and on-the-ground experiences in Algeria and Croatia. Continued prolonging of the ship’s schedule led to our disembarking in Rijeka, Croatia. We subsequently received reimbursement for the unused days, a regular practice of freighter companies. Meanwhile, we had developed an attraction to this form of travel, realizing any future ship would be an improvement. The Lykes line has since ceased passenger service.

South Seas adventure

In 1995, we chose a Southeast Asian tour on a German ship. We were intrigued by the itinerary originating in Auckland, New Zealand, and going to Surabaya and Jakarta, Indonesia; Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia; Singapore; Bangkok, Thailand; New Caledonia; and Fiji. The small daily cost ($70) compensated for the airfare.

Although the ship, the Crusader of the Tasman Asia Company, was elderly, its staterooms were luxurious and roomy, with teak paneling, unobstructed views, and fine private facilities. Our shipmates were a retired New York banker and a California widow, two delightful companions. Our crew had an Indian master, Croatian chief engineer, Egyptian radioman, and 22 Filipinos.

The 35-day cruise, visiting five New Zealand ports as well, was a continuous lesson in geography and world trade. The Crusader was a break-bulk cargo carrier and transported a variety of freight. Leaving New Zealand, it carried hundreds of rolls of newsprint, several thousand tons of steel coils, wood pulp, finished lumber, and containers of lamb and fruit. This cargo, unlike that of container ships, required handling with pallets, slings, and cranes, necessitating port stays of two or three days — a bonus for tourists.

The next seven weeks were a never-ending delight as we traversed tropical seas edged with the mountainous Indonesian archipelago, sailing through the Strait of Malacca, into Singapore, across the Gulf of Siam, back past New Guinea, across the Coral Sea to New Caledonia and Fiji, and then to Auckland. On trips ashore, we saw the people of Jakarta, the beauty of Kuala Lumpur, the controlled civilization of Singapore, the temples of Bangkok, and the tropical appeal of the South Sea Islands, while learning much about world trade. Wounds from the James Lykes were thoroughly healed, and we were ready for more freighter travel.

Delightful surprises

The Blue Star Line from the East Coast through the Panama Canal to the antipodes was selected for 1996. The Blue Star ships were designed for the Australian service — they had large refrigeration capacity for containers of meat and fresh fruits below decks with general cargo topside. The deckhouse had comfortable lounges and we dined on white linen with the captain in uniform, upholding British traditions.

Departing Jacksonville, Fla., our 67-day cruise onboard the America Star had scheduled stops in Houston, Texas; Panama; Auckland, Melbourne, Sydney, and Brisbane, Australia; Wellington, New Zealand; and Kingston, Jamaica. Two unscheduled stops were made at Pitcairn Island, the home of 46 Bounty mutineer descendants. Although there were some long segments at sea, five days ashore in Australia and the fascinating Pitcairn episodes made for a satisfying experience enjoyed with eight other passengers.

With longitudes still not crossed, in 1997 we aimed to go the whole way, signing on for a round-the-world trip from Long Beach, Calif., westward to New York. The ship, the Endeavour, was German owned, and chartered to the American shipper SeaLand. This state-of-the-art container ship was 804 feet long, 43,000 tons, and had space for 3,600 containers. Cruising at 23 knots, it was scheduled to visit 11 ports before reaching New York in 43 days.

Our daily exercise was unavoidable, as our spacious suite of sitting room, bedroom, and bath was five decks above the dining room and two decks below the bridge. A couple from Washington and a retired engineer from Chicago were our shipmates.

Although port time was minimal, the case on true container ships, we were able to marvel at the extravagant infrastructure in Japan, the dynamism of Taiwan, the beauty and turmoil of Hong Kong, the pathos of Sri Lanka, and the amazing Suez Canal transit, and take a second look at Singapore. Ahead of schedule, the captain hove to and dedicated a day to fun. Officers were high diving from the main deck, and each passenger took a ride around the ship in a small rescue boat — a great photo opportunity.

The charter company decided to reassign the ship, necessitating disembarking in Algeciras, Spain, next to Gibraltar, with prepaid air tickets home, two free nights in a first-class hotel, and reimbursement for unused days to New York. Arriving back in Florida, we had circumnavigated the world in 40 days.

In August 1999, we were the sole passengers boarding the Egon Oldendorff Line’s Discoverer from New Zealand to Manila, Taiwan, Hong Kong, New Caledonia, and Fiji. This 10-year-old vessel’s deficiencies were obvious as we boarded. Had we come full circle from the James Lykes?

However, our spartan accommodations were comfortable, the view was great, and our Slovenian captain welcomed us with champagne. We transferred in Hong Kong to a new ship, the Henriette Oldendorff. An elevator serviced our attractive suite and all decks. An Indian captain with a probing interest in American politics and finance made stimulating dinner conversation. Our experience has taught us to carefully research the details of prospective cruises before embarking, but always expect the unexpected when traveling by freighters. Regardless of some problems, you’ll be richly rewarded by your travels.