Smaller airlines, generally labeled "low cost" by the industry, are making more strides to create happiness at 35,000 feet — in part by stocking better wines.

Between bankruptcies, job losses, and increasing gas prices, it’s been a rough year for airlines. But the little guys, generally labeled "low cost" by the industry, are making more strides to create happiness at 35,000 feet — in part by stocking better wines.

Most airlines charge $4 to $5 for a 6-ounce glass of wine. In days gone by, that would buy a mini-bottle of vile white zinfandel, chardonnay, or cabernet. Major airlines concluded that serving good wine to coach (aka "cattle class") passengers wasn't worth the extra expense, and thus they limited decent wine to the first- and business-class passengers.

To be fair, stocking and serving wine on a plane isn't exactly easy. Most airline wines are purchased in bulk through national accounts, so the wineries involved need to have enough production to satisfy an airline serving tens of thousands of passengers. Another issue is the lack of storage space. Offering a whole slew of wines isn't feasible. It's a delicate balance, and I think the small airlines have figured it out.

Winners: JetBlue gets my first kudos, aligning itself with the hip California brand Twin Fin. This wine is decidedly drinkable, with pinot noir and cabernet sauvignon being my favorites. JetBlue has even appointed a "low-fare sommelier" to its ranks: Josh Wesson, cofounder of Best Sellers, a chain of innovative, low-cost wine shops.

The budget airline Song — now being assimilated by its ailing parent company, Delta Air Lines — serves wine by Bonterra Vineyards, an amazing organic winery in Mendocino County, Calif. But I'm not sure whether Delta, which serves a really good Chilean chardonnay from Vina La Rosa, will adopt Bonterra’s offerings.

Losers: AirTran, unfortunately, hasn't quite gotten with the wine program yet. Although its friendly flight attendants — I had one the other day who called everyone "sweetie" or "honey" — serve with a smile, the swill they're pouring leaves plenty to be desired: avoidable Sutter Home, Sycamore Lane, and Gossamer Bay at last look, but perhaps AirTran will also upgrade soon.

The major airlines continue to serve great, free grape in business/first class, such as Stone Cellars Chardonnay and Carmenet Merlot on Northwest. But is it worth the $600 upgrade to drink better wine? Only you can answer that.