By May, I’d finally lost last year’s holiday weight gain. “A swing through Europe would be a fine way to celebrate,” said Bonnie. Europe? “Let’s start in Venice,” she said. “Afterward, you can visit your old squadron at Aviano Air Base.”

Venice is not a culinary fat farm—rather, it’s pasta country. But I figured Bonnie would keep me svelte, and stopping by Aviano sounded great. 

Using her Lonely Planet guide, we soon found ourselves on a vaporetto en route to Venice’s Rialto Bridge. We checked in at the Pensione Guerrato, a former nunnery that now is a reasonably priced hotel. The walls were decorated with tapestries and etchings depicting old Venice. A peek at those showed that not much had changed over the millennium. Venice still is a miracle of no autos, motorcycles, or even bicycles.

Venice looked quite a bit improved from my first visit, some 40 years ago. Most of the houses sport nice coats of paint now, and many of the buildings have been maintained to keep them from sinking into the lagoon. The odor of the canals also seemed less overpowering. 

Wasting no time, Bonnie led the way through campos and over canal bridges, stopping at churches where tons of great art is tucked away. Within the Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari we found two Titian masterpieces, the dramatic Assunta (Assumption: 1518) and the Madonna di Ca Pesaro. But viewing all that eye-pasta made me want to find the edible kind, piled high with mussels and clams. 

The Italians like to eat slow and long. The main meal starts with antipasto, then comes the primo piatto (first dish), generally a pasta or risotto, but an insalate (salad) can be substituted; then the secondo piatto of meat or fish; then dessert, all liberally lubricated with Italian wines or beers and often topped off with coffee. How’s a man to stay trim? Bonnie had the solution. We ordered one of each course and asked for an extra plate. The Italians were happy to oblige, and we enjoyed a variety of tastes without getting stuffed. 

Keep in mind, one walks off these decadent pleasures while trekking through the campos. We also combed the labyrinths within the Doge’s Palace, complete with dungeons and grand reception rooms. Also, the Rialto Market, which locals have been coming to since 1097, was right outside our window. We picked up some fruit to add to our cereal, yogurt, pastry, and cappuccino.

On our third day, it was off to Murano, a tiny isle 10 minutes by vaporetto from Venice. Murano is famous for its crystal and mosaic glass products. From tiny wine stoppers to thousand-pound chandeliers, you can buy it at Murano. 

Then it was back to Venice and on to Aviano. Using Bonnie’s plan, we didn’t break the bank with our meals, but was I able to keep my boyish figure? Up just a pound. No problem—I’ll work that off doing carrier landings at Aviano’s Nickel bar!