Dressing for Success
Buying a civilian wardrobe is an important part of a career transition plan.
By Col. Jerry Crews, USA-Ret., Deputy Director, TOPS

Most military members own a limited civilian wardrobe and often don't know where to start when they consider that part of their career transition plan. While base exchanges offer a wide range of clothes and accessories, most do not employ trained fashion consultants who know how to match styles, colors, and accessories for an entire wardrobe.

The following tips on how to purchase and take care of your wardrobe were taken from a booklet provided by Men's Wearhouse at many nationwide retail stores. (Men's Wearhouse offers a 10 percent discount to all military personnel.) Women have more flexibility when putting together their career wardrobes, but some of the following tips, such as on fabric and fit, still apply.

Your basic interview suit should be a dark color - charcoal gray, navy blue, or black in either solid or pinstripe. A brown suit is fine for your wardrobe but not for an interview. A single-breasted suit is appropriate for all fields of employment; it's a classic that will never go out of style. Four-button suits may work in a creative environment but are too fashion-forward for some.

The fabric should be 100 percent worsted wool. Wool is a natural fiber that breathes, which means you will feel more comfortable. Look for suit jackets that are fully lined and pants that are lined to the knee. Lining increases comfort and durability while reducing wrinkles in your garment.

Do not buy size, buy fit; your suit always should feel comfortable. The jacket collar should follow closely the silhouette of the neck, with no gaping. The jacket also should lie smoothly over your shoulders and across your back. It should be long enough to cover your entire seat and look proportional to your physique. Your jacket sleeves should fall just at or below the break of your wrist; how much shirt shows depends on your preference.

Most suits come with pants that are either double- or triple-pleated. A cuffed hem is traditional and preferable. The pants should feel fuller through the thigh and should be worn right at your waist.

Unbutton your suit coat when sitting, and when you are in a car, make sure you hang the jacket up rather than wear it. Use curved hangers, hang suits with the curve going forward, and leave space between garments in your closet.

A white, 100 percent cotton, point-collar shirt (no button-down collar) is the most appropriate interview shirt. Observe em-ployees' shirts during your interview to judge the appropriateness of colors for your second interview. Always wear a long-sleeve dress shirt for an interview or business occasion; there is no such thing as a short-sleeve dress shirt.

Your tie should be businesslike and should complete a professional look; 100 percent silk ties are recommended, as they assure the best knot.

Keep accoutrements to a minimum. Suspenders or a well-chosen pocket silk will complement your look, but earrings and excessive jewelry detract from your professional appearance. Never wear both suspenders and a belt.

Lace-up shoes look professional and work especially well with suits. Choose either wing tip, cap-toe, or split-toe styles. Black or burgundy shoes can be worn with navy blue or gray suits; brown shoes are not recommended for interviewing. Never wear a penny loafer or a casual loafer with a suit.