America’s Galápagos
Ben Voyage faces down elephant seals to tour California’s Channel Islands.

A cruise ship advertisement touted Ecuador’s Galápagos Islands, so I said to Bonnie what an interesting voyage that would make. She responded, “Why not visit our own version first?” In answer to my raised eyebrows, she explained, “The Channel Islands.”

These eight small islands sit from 25 to 55 miles off the coast of Southern California. Parts of Catalina excepted, they are managed either by the U.S. Navy or the National Park Service; all but one are accessible by ferry. Catalina is noted for its storied Avalon Bay and wild bison; Anacapa is tiny, popular, and closest to shore; and Santa Cruz is the largest and most biologically diverse. Santa Rosa, Santa Barbara, San Nicolas, San Miguel, and San Clemente each have their own special character. Sign Ben up!

Bonnie and I soon were onboard the Conception, a charter boat run by Truth Aquatic Tours that allows groups to overnight aboard ship. Though I had not slept aboard ship since 1970, the old at-sea feelings quickly returned. The ship headed from the Santa Barbara harbor west along the California coast toward San Miguel, the westernmost of the Channel Islands. We then eased into Cuyler Harbor and loaded onto a skiff that took us to the beach, which was deserted except for a small herd of elephant seals.

Accompanied by National Park Service volunteer Inga Rose, our group eased past the “locals,” ever mindful that an upset elephant seal has a mean bite and can move faster than a human, though only for a short distance. A steep trail took us to the ranger station; the remains of Rancho Rambouillet, a sheep ranch run by Herbert Lester and his family from 1930 to 1942; and the campgrounds. We wandered through foliage containing a great number of varieties found only on the islands, finally reaching the Caliche Forest, where the trees that once thrived have calcified.

The first Europeans to visit the area came in 1542 with explorer Juan Cabrillo, who claimed the islands for Spain. Humans have inhabited the islands for the last 13,500 years. Some 4,000 to 5,000 years ago, the Chumash tribe established villages here. The remnants of abalone shellfish they gathered can be found in numerous middens, or trash heaps.

Later, I would visit volcanic San Clemente island, the southernmost of the Channel Islands, courtesy of the U.S. Navy. Only limited recent human encroachment has altered the island, and some 1,800 prehistoric sites have been identified and are protected by the Navy. I toured one site and viewed signs of native islanders who lived there thousands of years ago. Because San Clemente is used by the Navy for training, private and charter boats only are allowed to operate near shore, and no camping is permitted.

On our second day on San Miguel, we reached the northwest coast and topped a bluff above Simonton Cove. We looked below to a primeval setting that hosts six different species of pinniped. The island often is shrouded in fog, but in clear weather high winds and rough water are the norm. Those of us with wet suits and scuba gear found a treasure trove of marine life.

We can’t wait to visit our next Channel Island.